Just down the River Tiber from one of Rome’s most famous tourist destinations, The Vatican, lies one of Rome’s most eclectic neighborhoods. Trastevere is a city-within-a-city made up of a unique and unlikely blend of generations of working class folk, bohemian and free-spirited artists and a decidedly young and exuberant crowd. While these groups may seem as alike as chocolate and gasoline, it works. And the diversity and similarity come together to create one of the most colorful communities in Italy.
In a maze of cobblestone streets and ancient buildings, you’ll discover an authenticity that’s somewhat astounding in such a high-tourist city as Rome. The residents of Trastevere are fiercely opposed to ongoing attempts to gentrify and commercialize their beloved neighborhood. This alone gives the Medieval neighborhood on the west bank of the river an identity all its own.
A Historic Marketplace
If you’re lucky enough to start your day here, head to Mercato San Cosimato, nestled in the piazza of the same name. While open-air markets are common across Italy, this one dates back to the 900s — and many of the vendors are descendants of the original merchants. Open every morning (except Sunday), this lively market is a great place to pick up fresh produce or simply enjoy some classic people-watching. It’s a beautiful way to experience the rhythm of daily life in Trastevere.
The Oldest Christian Church in Rome
Trastevere is also home to one of the oldest churches in the city: Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Thought to date back to the 3rd century, it is widely recognized as one of the first official Christian places of worship in Rome. Step inside and you’ll be awed by its 12th-century mosaics by Pietro Cavallini, intricate marble work, and a magnificent 16th-century octagonal gold ceiling created by the Baroque artist Domenichino.
Jewish History and Culinary Legacy
Just across the Tiber lies the Jewish Ghetto, established in 1555 and home to one of the oldest Jewish communities in Europe. While not technically part of Trastevere, its influence reaches deeply into the surrounding neighborhoods — especially through food.
Many classic Roman dishes have Jewish origins. The famous carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes), concia di zucchine (marinated fried zucchini), and sweet ricotta cakes all come from the Jewish-Roman culinary tradition. These recipes, born out of resilience and creativity, continue to define the flavors of Rome and are often featured in eateries throughout Trastevere and beyond.
Gardens, Views, and Cannon Fire
For a peaceful break from the city’s bustle, the Orto Botanico (Botanical Garden) offers a delightful escape. Tucked away on the edge of Trastevere, the garden features bamboo groves, Japanese-style landscapes, greenhouses, and medicinal herb plots.
If you're up for a light climb, follow the path up Gianicolo Hill. At the top, you'll find stunning panoramic views of Rome, a Baroque fountain, and a towering monument to Garibaldi. Time your visit around noon to catch the traditional cannon fire, a Roman ritual that dates back to the 19th century.
Local Craft Beer & Roman Hospitality
The locals in Trastevere are warm and welcoming, and it’s easy to feel at home here. The neighborhood is filled with traditional trattorias serving Roman classics as well as more contemporary dishes. But for something different, check out the vibrant craft beer scene. Trastevere is home to Rome’s first-ever craft beer pub, Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa, a cozy spot beloved by beer enthusiasts. You’ll also find friendly bars throughout the neighborhood where you can sip your favorite beverage and catch an Italian football match with the locals.
Fantastic Art & Bohemian Vibes
With a long-standing community of artists and creatives, Trastevere has a flourishing art scene. Wander its alleys and you’ll find boutique galleries and artisan shops selling handmade jewelry, ceramics, and prints. For more formal collections, don’t miss Villa Farnesina, adorned with Renaissance frescoes; Palazzo Corsini, housing part of the National Gallery; and the Museum of Rome in Trastevere, which offers an intimate look at everyday Roman life in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Nightlife in Trastevere
As evening falls, the energy in Trastevere shifts. Cross the Ponte Sisto bridge at sunset and you'll find street performers entertaining the crowd. The neighborhood comes alive with music, clinking glasses, and candle-lit trattorias spilling onto the streets. While the rest of Rome winds down, Trastevere lights up with a unique charm that locals and travelers alike can’t resist.
Trastevere is not just a neighborhood — it's an experience. It invites you to slow down, taste something new, and feel part of something old. Whether you're exploring ancient churches, open-air markets, Renaissance art, or recipes shaped by centuries of history, Trastevere leaves an imprint on the heart — and a craving to return.